Lexington Barbecue, Lexington NC

September 2024

I had the best barbecue of my life under threat of a hurricane.

Lexington Barbecue was the third stop on a BBQ trail I was following through the heart of North Carolina. As it happened, a hurricane was also on its own trip through the United States, this one south of me heading east to west. I didn’t know it, but as I drove it veered northwest, so I was driving towards it.

But by the time I got off the highway and drove up the steep incline to the hilltop on which perched Lexington Barbecue, around 5:30pm, the only evidence of the hurricane was stormy clouds and pouring rain. The lot was almost full, but I managed to squeeze into a space at the edge, pulled on my rain jacket, and sprinted inside.

Fortunately, there were a few empty tables, so I sat down and ordered brisket with hush puppies. I pulled out a book, listened to the rain, and waited. Maybe 10 minutes later, out came my order, and I dug in.

As a kid, I thought barbecue was just sweet and tangy, that it could be good but never anything to write home about. I couldn’t conceive of barbecue that was sublime, and that’s the best word I can think of to describe this meal. I tasted the brisket without sauce, and immediately realized that saucing it would be a crime. It was tangy, juicy, and full of flavor all on its own.

And the hush puppies! I bit into one, and the crispy outside gave way to a downright airy interior that quickly dissolved in my mouth with the sweetness of corn, almost like cotton candy (but with all the corn flavor of a hush puppy). I’ve no idea how they managed it.

I happily paid for my meal, then reluctantly put my jacket back on. The rain had stopped briefly, and I was able to contentedly stroll back to my van. The next day would mean more tussling with the weather (and thankfully, I avoided the hurricane). But for today, any amount of rain was worth that meal.

Cost: About $20 for a meal

Conditions: 75℉, strong wind, and rain, almost like there’s a hurricane nearby